Accurate Homebrew Blue

July 21, 2012

Although I do quite like the "ice blue" look of the TR-7 with blue LEDs, the monochromatic light from the LEDs rendered the red dB-over-S9 numbers in the S-Meter black. A post from another ham on the Drakelist reflector alerted me to a "warm white frosted" LED pilot lamp replacement from Coin Taker, a supplier of parts for pinball machines. Click HERE to see it. They were cheap enough ($0.69 each, as of this writing), so I ordered a bag of 10. The cost was well under $10, including shipping, and they arrived promptly.

The LEDs are intended as #44/47 replacements, requiring 6.3 VAC @ 40 mA. They are non-polarized, which means that they probably have an internal bridge rectifier. As such, they can easily run from a higher DC voltage with a series dropping resistor. I chose to use a 180 Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor in series with each pilot lamp socket. I also added a strip of white plastic diffuser material cut from an empty shampoo bottle behind each lamp, to brighten and even out the illumination. (Note: Drake 4-Line and earlier rigs have a white background behind the lamps which, according to K4OAH, yellows over time and alters the color of the display illumination). Below are some pictures of the results; it seems to be very difficult to accurately capture the color on camera, sometimes they look a bit on the green side, sometimes a little overly blue, but you get the general idea. The red is back! The overall coloring seems much closer to Drake original, which should make the purists happier as well.

Note the shadow on the right from the lamp base, which is normal with the stock lamps.

Still a hot spot in the middle, but not as much as with the homebrew lamps. There's that shadow on the right again!

The TR-7 next to the RV-7, which still has the homebrew "ice blue" lamp. Hotspots are exaggerated by the camera.

Full front shot of the TR-7/RV-7.

Smile for your closeup, Mr. Meter.

You can compare the coloring with the Homebrew Blue photos below to get an idea of the difference. Although there are various opinions of what "Drake original" blue is, the general consensus among restorers is that Lee Filters #172 "Lagoon Blue" gel is very close to the original. You can see a sample of this color HERE. It is also roughly equivalent to Rosco E-Colour 172, which can be seen HERE. The background color of this page is generated by the Hex color codes for the Lee 172 swatch on the Lee web page. Rosco E-Colour 172 seems somewhat darker and more blue than Lee 172, as can be seen by the difference between the color swatch below (generated by Rosco 172 Hex codes) and the page background color. This may just be differences in the way the colors were rendered for internet presentation, but is probably close to the actual gel color.

Update 10/29/2014! Thanks to Dave, KD2E, who has provided information to the effect that Roscolene #853 is the ORIGINAL Drake filter material. I have added Roscolene #853 right below Rosco E-172. Thanks, Dave!

Rosco E-Colour #172 Lagoon Blue

Roscolene #853 Middle Blue

To further add to the mix of possibilities, Roscolux #67 is referenced as a substitute for Roscolene #853 and similar colors

Roscolux #67 Light Sky Blue

And also recommended by Rosco is E-Color #724 Ocean Blue (Thanks to Stan KM4HQE for the info)

Rosco E-Color #724 Ocean Blue

The Original Homebrew Blue

I was preparing to make another set of blue LED pilot lamps for my newly acquired R7A when I spotted an interesting new LED offering on Radio Shack's web site: SKU#276-023, a high-brightness blue LED in a 4-pin dip package. This package is also offered in red, green, and white, but blue was my primary interest for reasons that should be obvious. My mind immediately jumped to the possibilities....

A trip to a nearby Radio Shack netted me several LEDs and a 276-150 experimenter's circuit board. I stopped at Ace Hardware on the way back to pick up some cheap automotive lamps in the proper form factor to use as base donors.

The LEDs are rated at 20 mA maximum forward current. I decided to use two LEDs in series for each lamp, and calculated that a 390 Ohm, .25 Watt series resistor would be suitable. Measured current with two LEDs fed from 13.8 Volts DC was just under 20 mA.

The bulbs of the pilot lamps were duly sacrificed in homage to the Boatanchor gods, the bases cleaned, and the Radio Shack circuit board was cut into small strips with a Dremel cutting wheel to fit the lamp bases. The LEDs and current-limiting resistors were assembled onto the circuit board, and the assembly soldered to the lamp base. It all fit together quite nicely into a neat, compact package. Here are some pictures of the Version 1 assembly (all pictures are clickable):

If you are wondering where the resistor is, it is down inside the lamp base. The end can just be seen to the left of the left LED. This worked out very well for the S-Meter, but the center of illumination was too far away from the lamp base to work well for the PTO. In the second version, I made the circuit board strip shorter and trimmed the lamp base with my Dremel to be even with the end of the lamp socket when inserted. This worked out better, although some experimentation with the position of the lamp socket was still required for the most pleasing illumination. In both versions, the circuit board was secured to the lamp base with only the soldering to the ground point of the LED string. Here is the Version 2 assembly:

The S-Meter illumination is very smooth and even, fading slightly at the edges. PTO illumination has two slightly brighter spots, fading gently to a fairly even blue at the edges of the window. Careful adjustment of the lamp position results in what I think is a cool "cathedral" effect, which I attempted to capture in the photos below. The effect is much more attractive when seen firsthand, of course. I lightly sanded the surface of the LEDs to "frost" them and (hopefully) diffuse the light a little better, but I don't think this had a major impact.

I took the full frontal pic above with the original PTO lamp still in place to show the difference in the new lighting. The greenish tint of the original is slightly exaggerated by the camera, but the difference is striking nonetheless. Overall, I was quite happy with the results. I'm sure that something could be done to diffuse the light better, or perhaps more LEDs could be stacked together to even the glow out. But I think this is pretty darn good for a couple of hours at the bench. The LEDs are pretty bright at this level; a more subdued blue can be achieved by using a higher resistor value. I found that a value of 750 Ohms also works well but is not quite as bright. The only problem I had was that I had to buy more LEDs so I could make up more lamps for my TR7 and RV7, as the LED lamps I brewed up previously weren't as bright. At some point in the future, I will investigate adapting these LEDs to the Drake L7 as well.

One final note: as I was working on the second TR/RV7 combo, I discovered that the lamp socket in the RV7  was wired backwards compared to my two TR7s, R7A, and other RV7. The shell of the socket was wired to +13 Volts, and the center pin was wired to ground. This is undesirable for a couple of reasons, one being that it is easy to accidentally ground out the shell of the lamp socket if you are trying to fine-tune the lamp position with power on. This will blow the 5 Amp internal fuse in the TR7 instantly! The other reason is, of course, I wanted all the LED lamp assemblies to be the same for reasons of compatibility and uniformity. This was easily corrected by unsoldering the wires from the lamp socket and reversing them. This is probably an isolated fault, but it would be wise to check the polarity of any lamp sockets before LED modules are installed.

"The Twins"

If this method isn't to your liking, or you you don't wish to build your own, there are also online vendors who manufacture and sell some very nice LED lamps for Drake equipment. I do not make these for sale, this information is provided so that you can have the fun of making your own.

Check out N9OO's cool blue LED lamp replacements at The Radio Lab Works if you are interested in purchasing ready-made lamps.

Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT, also offers LED lamp replacements. You can see them HERE.

Willi Rass, DF4NW, manufactured the blue LED digital readout shown in my TR7 above. Check out his replacement LED readouts, in various colors, HERE.

For a little bit different kind of blue, give a listen to my friend Laurie McClain's beautiful cover of Kate Wolf's "Cornflower Blue" by clicking HERE.

View My Stats

This page was created using the  The Seamonkey Project  all-in-one internet application suite

All original material contained on this web site is ©Copyright 2008-2012 James R. Shorney (except where noted)
Drake is a registered trademark of  R.L. Drake, L.L.C.
All other Trademarks and Copyrights are those of their respective owners
Information contained in this page may be freely distributed for non-profit educational purposes, providing that the author and original source(s) are credited, except where prohibited by other Copyrights included here by reference.
This information MAY NOT be included in any work or compilation offered for sale, or any eBay or other online sale or auction, except by reference or hypertext link, without prior written consent by the author.

Updated 4/27/2015